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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.